Winds of change, or rather, a Belgian breeze is blowing across the terrace of the Auberge des Carrières. Virginie Depoorter and Niels Lefevere met one department away in Eygalières, at a restaurant run by their fellow compatriot Wout Bru, who trained them in front-of-house protocols and in the kitchen. The day we went for lunch, we had veal sweetbreads poached in dashi broth with raw peas; followed by monkfish medallions with an opaque center, plus a sharp and buttery jus marinière; and if most of the locally-sourced preparations are savory, the Belgian attitude comes galloping in at dessert, with a strange Toblerone bar with speculoos espuma. FYI: at lunch, the “petit” menu of the day gets straight to the point – a ricotta and fennel purée ravioli; sirloin steak with potatoes and bearnaise sauce; roasted apricot panna cotta. // Emma Lactère 

FEELING THIRSTY? : A wine list that zigzags between the major classics and naturalist bottles, from an Ardèche viognier-roussane from Hervé Souhaut (€54), a highly drinkable Provence grenache from Myrko Tépus (€51), to Luberon wines from the Château La Canorgue and the Domaine de Marie served by the glass (€5). 
PRICE: : Set menus €27-36 (lunch) and €49-58.