La Petite Campagne? The jewel in this corner of Bovesse’s crown, and the name of the agricool complex where the young Basile De Wulf (ex-BonBon) has set up his quarters in a sort of chalet or a micro-ranch, it’s difficult to decide. Arched wooden ceilings, a Narnia-esque wardrobe, an antlered skull… It’s all well put together, without feeling forced or falling into fine dining clichés, which is a godsend to this part of BW. The menu plays the ultra-locavorism card, using produce grown nearby. That lunchtime, the surprise market menu featured: terrific raw rainbow trout from Lake Butgenbach, doing laps in a broccoli sauce drizzled in a green oil, plus daikon radish rounds, broccoli florets and herbed nori; young pigeon paired with the first asparagus and (mushy) peas of the season, plus roast potatoes and garlic foam; finishing with the only survivor of the daily turnover, the signature Dame Blanche from sous-chef Julien Roobrouck, a homemade ice cream with a crème anglaise base and three varieties of vanilla, plus a bubbly chocolate mousse. // Jean Gourmand

FEELING THIRSTY? An impressive, largely natural wine list: Sierra du Sud, a Rhone Syrah from Gramenon (€45 a bottle), Céleste, a Loire white from the Domaine de l’Écu (€115), Corps de Garde, a white Côtes-d’Auxerre from Goisot (€45), and even Belgian references with Cantillon gueuze (€20) or Buisson, a Pinot Gris from the Domaine du Ry d’Argent in Bovesse (€36).

PRICE: Menus €39 (lunch, €50 with dessert) and €72 to €110 (dinner).