Saint-Lambert is booming! Lodged between Pharo and Notre-Dame de la Garde, this small neighborhood has wholeheartedly embraced a new spot steeped in Mediterranean hospitality. Housed in the former Vesuvio, the freshly renovated space (terrazzo floors, raw wood tones) still proudly centers around its wood-fired oven, lovingly preserved by owners Aurélien Baron (ex-chef at L’Idéal) and Mychael Cassia (ex-Dame Jeanne and the brains behind Zymi Déli). That sticky evening, cocooned in the air-conditioned dining room, we tucked into a joyful parade of plates: wood-fired socca, followed by some sparkling man’oushe (a nod to Mychael’s Lebanese roots) topped with labneh and Armenian cucumber; luscious cranberry beans bobing in a chilled, perfectly tomatoey pistou soup; escarole and anchovy pie worthy of a trattoria; sublime eggplant parmesan served straight from its stoneware dish; and tender beef tagliata paired with a hulking Marmande tomato and a sharp agrodolce relish. Sweetness seekers won’t leave unsatisfied: an addictive cloud of Fontainebleau ice cream floating above cardamom- and saffron-poached peaches, or balm-like homemade fior di latte ice cream with strawberries, almond crumble and a crack of black pepper. Le Bercail – comfort food, just better than at home. · Maude Zarella

FEELING THIRSTY? A short but lively wine list, including a pure Ardèche viognier from Deux Terres (€7 a glass) and a riesling from Yves Dietrich (€50 a bottle). Fizzy options include Prémices Normandy pear cider from Cyprien Lireux (€25) and Cugini Caruso citron soda (€5 for 180 ml).

PRICE: Set menu €22-27 (weekday lunch), plates €6-21 (evening).