Small but mighty, this bistro run by friends Maxime Renvazé and Léopold Gillen – two local kids who trained under Ducasse (including stints at L’Hostellerie de l’Abbaye de la Celle for the former and Le Meurice for the latter) – have reunited in the Saint-Aubin neighborhood to serve up only the very best fare. In this month of January, at their lovely little spot with a finely crafted Turquin blue bar, grass-green paneling and murals by local street artist Oblique, the lunch menu gave us a much-needed boost: a sublime shallot tarte Tatin with a balsamic glaze and an apple reduction, topped with mint and chive whipped cream; organic root veggies from Belberaud (carrots, rutabaga, parsnips, golden turnips, salsify) stewed pot-au-feu-style for a mood-lifter of a dish, with a full-bodied veggie broth, slow-roasted garlic and sunchoke chips; before a comforting crêpe Suzette flambéed with Grand Marnier, served with orange zest and juice in the traditional manner. At night, expect more of the same, served à la carte: homemade pork rillettes, beef and carrot stew, French toast with poached quince and mascarpone Chantilly cream… · Loulou Pic

FEELING THIRSTY? Low-intervention options: Génésis, a Touraine malbec from Bonnigal-Bodet (€5 a glass), Le Petit Derna, an Aude red blend produced by Guillaume Boussens (€22 a bottle) or Les Churelles, a coteaux-du-layon from the Domaine de Juchepie (€34).

PRICE: Set menus €21-25 (lunch), à la carte €40-51.