Midi-minuit plein soleil

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It’s been almost a year since the fall of the wall dividing Midi Minuit and the historic printer’s on Place du Peyrou, long-known by Saint-Sernin high school students and law school students alike. You won’t find any more photocopiers, but rather a wine shop that expands Nicolas Grandmaison and Sarah Caniot’s kingdom. Even more tables and wine, therefore, in this big bistro done up with bricks and raw concrete, and lit by lightbulbs hanging from the ceiling of this hip hangar. Seated at the tables, you’ll overhear unpretentious conversations about the fresh, local cuisine, centered around a lunchtime bistro menu sourced partially from their very own garden. The day we went for lunch, there was a creamy butternut squash velouté with hazelnut oil for an indulgent touch; rustic duck hearts sautéed in garlicky parsley butter, with fried potatoes, spicy mayonnaise and an extremely fresh mixed green salad; before a surprising and delicious flan served warm, and therefore a little more wiggly than usual. At night, expect French-style tapas: pan-fried foie gras, black trumpet mushrooms and a whiskey emulsion; vegetable blanquette; wolfish cheeks breaded in panko and served with beetroot ketchup on the side… // A.M.

FEELING THIRSTY? A hundred natural/organic labels to choose from in the attached wine shop, including L’Intrépide, a Saint-Pourçain from the Domaine des Bérioles (€5.90 a glass), Carbo Culte, a Roussillon red from the Cave Apicole (€24 a bottle), or a pet’ nat’ from Montlouis-sur-Loire from Le Rocher des Violettes (€31.50).
PRICE: Set menu €14.80 to €16.80 (lunch), tapas €5-12, big plates €22 (dinner).

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