A white cube within a black cube. At the helm of this sleek café-bistro – as understatedly contemporary as the building that houses it (the monumental Ceysson & Bénétière art gallery) – are Matthieu Mondesert (ex-Demain les Vins), chef Thibaud Grand (ex-Verre Galant) and Bérénice Gouttebroze, who delight visitors with a menu of delicate flavors that changes daily: a beautifully plated vitello tonnato; pristine pollack on a sturdy ratatouille, brought together with shallot and chervil butter; before finishing with a sinfully good dark chocolate tart with caramel and praline, which we nearly swapped for an enticing log of Fourme de Montbrison with Pilat honey. Once lunchtime service winds down, the space shifts into tea-room mode, serving mid-afternoon pick-me-ups like dark chocolate caramel tartlets or cream puffs with hot chocolate sauce. · Adrien Nouviaire

FEELING THIRSTY? An avalanche (300 references) of “artisanal, atypical, organic, natural, and auteur wines,” as they rightly call them: Clos des Vignes, a mâcon-cruzille white, and Diorite, a côtes-du-forez red both from Gilles Bonnefoy by the glass (€6-9), a régnié from Antoine Sunier (€50 a bottle), a Rhône from Élodie Jaume, or a dry, natural malagousia from Greece’s Tetramythos (€35), all available to take away. And If you’re feeling flush: a côte-rôtie from Yves Gangloff at €170. Chapuis coffees and teas (€2.20 and €3).

PRICE: Set menu €23-26, sweets €4.