Two years ago, Café Arsène quietly lost its grave accent on the “e” and gained a diaeresis – becoming Arsëne. A tiny typographical weak, but a neat symbol of the glow-up that followed. Behind the faux-medieval decor (stone vaulted ceiling, stained glass windows, exposed brick walls, checkerboard tiles), a new guard took over: Paul Ruspil (Durden, Satriale, Le NoZe, Bernardo), chef Jules Duroc (ex-Jean Sulpice, Troisgros, Les Apothicaires) and pastry chef Mathieu Laplace, who now steer the kitchen with quiet precision. On the menu that lunchtime: carrot three ways – as garlicky chips, crisp raw ribbons marinated in orange blossom and a miso-laced purée sharpened with sorrel and a roasted hazelnut crumb; plump gnocchi with a smattering of pea purée, blanketed in sage-infused Parmesan cream, drizzled with sage oil and topped with fried sage leaves; followed by a silky yogurt mousse crowned with house-made granola, roasted peach in chestnut honey and fresh strawberries. Come evening, the dials turns up with the six-course tasting menu or the freedom to go à la carte. · Ama Pola

FEELING THIRSTY? A sharp selectin of zero-chemical wines: a Loire white from Domaine de Veilloux (€7 a glass), a sylvaner from Maison Muré (€36 a bottle) or L’Enclume, a syrah from Domaine Hameau Touchebœuf (€72). Or keep it clear-headed with Club-Maté (€6 for 330 ml).

PRICE: Dish of the day €19, set menus €26-29 (lunch), set menu €59 (dinner), à la carte €41-59.