In a part of Lyon that’s been sleeping on its laurels for a little while now, the dynamic duo of Mathias Beguin (ex-Aux Deux Amis in Paris, and Substrat in Lyon’s Croix-Rousse neighborhood) and Matthias Lallemant (who used to work at Robert – also in Paris, and at Bel Ami, at the foot of Lyon’s Pentes neighborhood) have taken over the kitchens of a former bouchon from 1952, transformed for the occasion into a very beautiful neo-bistro (terrazzo tile floors, 1970s-style orange tables, a vintage bar). The day we went for lunch, all of the following made its way to our table from the semi-open kitchen: roasted and raw cauliflower florets cozied up with an incredible salsa verde and drizzled with a warm, creamy cauliflower foam; fresh pasta with lamb ragù made with lamb from the Ferme de Clavisy – or golden guinea fowl with butternut squash purée, slices of roasted red kuri squash, a rich reduction and crushed walnuts; all followed by a divine lemon posset for dessert pimped out with citrus supremes, almond crumble and thinly sliced shiso. At night, make way for mouthwatering shared plates: pig’s head croquettes with pear and anchovy; cabbage and celeriac, with chanterelles and yogurt sauce; and large cuts of meat served family-style – think pork chops or lamb shoulder. A virée (French for a little jaunt) that will likely become one of your go-to spots! · Eddie Muffin

FEELING THIRSTY? A very lovely wine list, featuring options like Bob, a gamay from the Obora winery, an Alsatian Riesling by Kleinknecht (both €6 a glass), an Arbois Chardonnay from the Domaine de la Pinte (€37 a bottle), and Ostara, an Ardèche syrah-grenache by Patricia and Rémi Bonneton (€36). When it comes to soft drinks, there’s artisanal iced tea by Fine (€4 for 330 ml of the peach flavor).

PRICE: Set menus €19-25 (lunch), plates €8-25.