It takes a village to build a restaurant! In Saint-Sever-du-Moustier, deep in Aveyron, Constance Fay (ex-Mouffu in Clermont-Ferrand) and Arthur Barbary (formerly of Homiz in Clermont-Ferrand and co-founder of Quartier Métisseur in Beaujolais) have taken up residence in the old convent, freshly renovated by the town hall and a local charity organization, with the noble aim of breathing life back into this 200-soul village. The result? Bubamara (“ladybug” in Serbian), a no-frills bistro (a modest wooden bar, a stately fireplace, a charming terrace) positively blessed with culinary grace. On the menu: ultra-thin ravioli generously stuffed with lemony ‘nduja, floating in a gloriously creamy broth; Apalhat pork tenderloin raised right in the village, cooked with saintly precision and served with tender white beans lifted by a subtle soy jus; cold roast beef from Maison Bousquet, haloed with sauce gribiche and fries so good they border on sin. And to hell with restraint – finish with a slab of gooey walnut brownie, slicked with a swizzle of caramel and paired with vanilla ice cream. · Aya Bouriole

FEELING THIRSTY? A short, spot-on selection of natural wines from near and far: Point G, a red from Domaine de Juvi in the Pyrénées-Orientales (€4 a glass), a muscat-java blend from the nearby Cave Apicole (€27 a bottle) or Lulu, a silky gamay from Patrick Bouju in the Auvergne (€45). Otherwise, keep it simple with lager from Brasserie du Castel in Nages (€3 a half-pint), bissap juice or homemade iced tea (€2 and €3 a glass).

PRICE: À la carte €28-40.