Café Service

We barely had a chance to dry our eyes after the closure of Stanny, the bistro institution on the outskirts of Berchem, when the brilliant Café Service was announced as its worthy successor. Its heirs? Tessa Kersten (ex-Nage) and Daan Gooiker (ex-Café Commercial), who renovated this old estaminet with some good old-fashioned elbow grease, preserving the turn-of-the-century tiling, the long wooden bar and the place’s rebellious spirit. The same goes for the cuisine, as Lauren Vergeyle (who also worked at Nage) and Robin Gielens (ex-Veranda) bang out an amorous feast in the form of small plates, washed down with lively wines unearthed by Daan and beers sourced from Billie’s Bottle Shop. The result? Some very tasty homemade rillettes; a brandade croquette to dip in a huge dollop of shrimp mayo; an assembly of fresh peas, pea velouté, anchovies and ‘nduja jus; juicy cockles with beurre blanc sauce, purslane and salmon roe; and an incredibly moreish caramel flan. The added bonus: you can book a table in the dining room, or simply turn up off the cuff for an impromptu counter-top dinner perched on one of the dozen barstools along the window or the bar. // Sugar Kowalczyk

FEELING THIRSTY? Something for all thirsts of life: a lip-smacking Alsatian pinot gris from Jean Ginglinger (€7 a glass), a Jura pinot noir from Valentin Morel (€65 a bottle), Bret-Elle oude geuze from Lambiek Fabriek (€13.50 for 375 ml), classy Bavik pilsner from De Brabandere (€2.50 for a half-pint, €3.50 with Picon) or Rish non-alcoholic sparkling rosé (€6.50 a glass).
PRICE: Small plates €5-23.