Soixante

Soixante? It’s the number on Guldenvliesstraat where Louis Devos, Jonas Van Sant and Jakub Blogowski (all three behind Briquet) placed their bets, and it’s also the name witness to the minimalism which infuses this new gastrological gamble (an ornate window, blue neon lights, dark wooden banquettes). In what used to house Veranda, Jakub (ex-chef at Bibendum in London) plays the card of honest but powerful cuisine: amberjack sashimi sheltered under a delicate raw yellow zucchini structure, with fermented wild garlic blossoms and a marigold vinaigrette; runny poached egg, crispy cabbage and pickled onions wading in an intense mushroom broth; pointed cabbage topped with porcini mushroom confit, sweet potato and dill; delightful sea bass painted in beurre blanc and flanked by fermented asparagus peel; before a Hokkaido pumpkin panna cotta with tangy blackcurrant leaves. The winning number is Soixante! // Kiko Zushi

FEELING THIRSTY? Wine-lover Louis Devos is naturally well versed: champagne from Nathalie Falmet (€15 a flute), a Roussillon skin contact from La Sorga (€69 a bottle), La Bohème, an Auvergne chardonnay from Patrick Bouju (€59), and Oude Gueuze beer from 3 Fonteinen (€9 for 375 ml).

PRICE: Menus €70-80-90 (5-6-7 courses).