Veranda

Located between Antwerps Sportpaleis and the slaughterhouses, Veranda has been running smoothly for more than a decade now, inside an old youth club which opens onto a miniature urban garden. An open kitchen, concrete walls, supple leather cutlery pouches… it ticks off all the boxes of the genre. And Davy Schellemans seduces his diners with fare that packs a punch, while the market menu (which rotates every month) reminds us why Davy was one of the pioneers of Flemish neo-grub. We kick things off with freshly fermented mackerel, cream of celery, wild garlic and almonds; then simple boiled potatoes, fennel and a scallop coral cream to accompany line-caught sea bass with a beurre blanc sauce; the third act plays out with braised beef lasagna, a fine interlayering of pasta and Dijonnaise sauce, all sprinkled with crispy onions and shallots; and a black tea cream and roasted apricots for dessert. // Kiko Zushi

FEELING THIRSTY? Well-chosen wines from the dizzyingly tall glass cellar: Monsieur Pineau, a Loire pet’ nat’ from La Sauvagère (€14 a glass), Ange, a Touraine Chenin from from Gérard Marula (€49 a bottle), or You’re a Time Machine, a rhubarb/saison/lambic brew from BBP (€9 for 330 ml).

PRICE: Menus €37, 46.50 and €69 (lunch), €69 (dinner), food and wine pairings €30.