Loes & Krikke

If you want to get a whiff of the pizzas being cooked here in a wood-fired oven, you’ll need to venture down the narrow part of a private alleyway, crowned with a mysterious wrought-iron “Colonia” awning, then through the interior courtyard of this former printing house. Behind the entirely windowed facade hides a pizztacular spot whose creators, Loes Rombouts and Krikke Festiëns, top their pies with everything the season has to offer, from wild garlic to vegetables from the Ons Logisch Voedsel farm. Piping hot the day we went: a delicious disk covered in tomato sauce, burratina and black garlic, with dough made from organic spelt wheat flour. On a gluten-free diet? The couple also sends out some incredible bright green spinach risotto; whole roasted, almost meaty celeriac slathered in an incredible mustard and almond sauce; unfussy slices of salsiccia served with cornichon and lentil salsa… The most charming bit of all? The pizzaiolos bring out all of their dishes a tavola! // Bobbi Rossi

FEELING THIRSTY? Natural bottles, to be plucked from the shelves: Roulette 48° 29’ N, 15° 52’ O, an Austrian white from Diwald (€32 a bottle), Ribolla Gialla, an iconic skin-contact white aged in amphora from Gravner (€108) or Terre à Boire, an Alsatian pinot noir and pinot gris blend produced by Léo Dirringer (€10 a glass). Water €3.50.
PRICE: Pizzas €15.50 to €22.50, small plates €7 to €21.20, desserts €3.90 to €10.