No, the Ottolenghi wave hasn’t swept away all the vaguely Middle Eastern delis across the country! Take the Hadid family, who doesn’t care about trends or publicity at their (tiny) Beirut embassy in Antwerp, with its buffet counter brimming with goodies: from cold options like classic baba ganoush, hummus (also available as a beetroot version), roasted cauliflower and labneh balls; and the equally irresistible grilled zucchini, lamb meatballs, giant white beans in tomato sauce, and rice with lentils, for the hot stuff. If you’re having trouble choosing, grab the lot to go in a take-away box (sizes S, L, XL and XXL, from €3.50 to €16). And for those in a hurry, there are meat wraps (shawarma, sudjuk) or vegetarian versions (falafel, halloumi), from €6.50 to €7. Parched? Quench your thirst on mass produced sodas or ayran, a traditional yogurt drink. // Juno Madre

The hidden gem: The homemade dill falafel (€0.80 each).