Once a secret spot for those in the know, Ni Shifu’s is now very popular. Why? Because Sichuan cuisine is perhaps the most fascinating in China, and the chef has been dedicated to its art for more than 18 years, including three here. To kick things off: spicy white cabbage and pork wontons swimming in their hot sauce; followed by salt and pepper squid; unforgettable crispy duck marinated in Peking sauce (honey, soy sauce, chili, sesame oil, rice vinegar), served with sweet and sour cucumber; and comforting homemade noodles with minced pork and satay sauce. // Juno Madre

FEELING THIRSTY? Water (€2.50 for 500 ml) and a little wine: Sacchetto pinot grigio (€23 a bottle) or a red Côtes-de-Thongue from Domaine de Montauberon (€24).

PRICE: Starters €4.20 to €11.80, mains €14.50 to €27.80.