Sacks of flour scattered about, a wood-fired oven in the garden and 20 or so tables spread out across two dining rooms in a small house located behind the zoo. This is where Floortje De Ley works her dough made using sourdough starter and organic wheat and spelt flours, fermented for 48 hours. Fresh out of the oven, her mouthwatering pizzas come topped with seasonal vegetables, fresh herbs, homemade tomato sauce and fior di latte mozzarella made by the local Italian cheesemaker Casa Madaio: classic options like a (vegan) Marinara with tomatoes and garlic or a Margherita pizza; along with more exciting options like the Boerenkool featuring kale, gorgonzola, tomatoes and capers; the Venkel with fennel, burrata, anchovies and black pepper; or, our personal choice, a superb Witloof with chicory, marinated red onions, cheddar, garlic and fior di latte, which would soon be replaced by other creations. And to round out the meal, there’s homemade crème brûlée or affogato. Floortje also holds bakery workshops – during which homemade bread is served at apéro hour with an Italian salami board. · Kiko Zushi

FEELING THIRSTY? Negronis for apéro (€9.50), and to stay on theme, locally made fermented beverages, like craft beer (Saison from Gistgeest at €4 for 250 ml), some beautiful lambics (Druif muscaris or grüner veltliner from 3 Fonteinen at €8 a glass or €39 a bottle, Cantillon grand cru Bruocsella at €45), or Crush, a crisp, natural grolleau produced by Julie and Toby Bainbridge in Anjou (€8 a glass, €40 a bottle).

PRICE: Appetizers €12-14, pizzas €15-21, desserts €7-9.