The fact that Caos rhymes with sombreros didn’t cause Mathias De Soir (spotted working the dining room at Mrs. Robinson) and Stéphanie de Kanter (formerly in the marketing world) to roll out the mariachis. Instead, their quiet luxury mezcaleria feels more like an NYC concept store, dressed in brushed metal, walnut wood, heady incense, a monumental cactus and a polished concrete central altar, where no persuasion was needed to worship chef Rahman Bucaj’s plates – which the other night included: leek and razor clam carpaccio with stracciatella, bobbing in a spicy tomatillo sauce (packed with habanero, serrano, ají amarillo chili peppers) seasoned with fermented makrut lime juice… Before tucking into tacos with corn tortillas made in-house, crispy-skinned sea bass, mussel mousseline and jalapeños; then finishing with a huge quenelle of avocado sorbet shacked up with smoked yuzu raw cream. In short, a restaurant mexicana with high-end flavors and expensive taste – a little pricey, yes, but who cares when it tastes this good and the good times keep rolling! · Olive Oyl

FEELING THIRSTY? Mathias has got you covered, with over 40 mezcals (Mal Bien, Ultramundo, etc.), classic or twisted margaritas (including a spicy version for €14), micheladas with Modelo beer (€7) and even a short list of classic wines.

PRICE: Snacks €9-14, appetizers to share €19-38, tacos €18-24 (for two), desserts €12.