With its very sword-and-sandal-inspired name and its terrace lit by small lanterns across from Arles’ ancient Arènes, this Colosseo could have been a tourist trap of a pizzeria. But you’d be mistaken for thinking that: at Anna Fomicheva and Mehdi Chidekh’s spot, Rome crackles on the plate and takes the pleasureometer to new heights, all thanks to pinse baked in their specialty oven. Obsessed with all things Italy, the couple trained in the Boot, and now masters this little-known variety of pizza, featuring a light crust (made with a flour mix that includes soy bean and rice flours) and boasting a crispy yet pillowy-soft texture, the result of its double baking process. In a space with an elegant walnut bar and stylish tiling, they send out around 15 beauties topped with carefully-sourced ingredients: a Cacio e Pepe version with pecorino and black pepper, or a Brandade, featuring organic zucchini ribbons cooked in the oven, artisan brandade and chili. For us, it was a Parma that combined mozzarella, Parma ham aged for 24 months and a handful of arugula on an oval-shaped pie. For dessert, Anna’s delightful tiramisu is a sure bet. // Ari Beaux

FEELING THIRSTY? A few options from both France and Italy: Nero d’Avola by Jonico (€6 a glass), a non-alcoholic sparkling wine from Nozeco (€5), Charmentin, a white from Le Mas de Valériole (€26 a bottle), and La Chapelle, a red from Le Mas Sainte Berthe (€35).
PRICE: : Pinse €9-22, sides €5-8, cheese and charcuterie platters €15-25, salads €18-22, desserts €8.