After the Hôtel Le Voltaire and its restaurant by the same name, it’s now time for the Hôtel Présent to bring a little excitement to this picturesque Arles square surrounded by plane trees and terraces. In a building from the 1950s designed by Pierre Vago, featuring bright yellow tables and awnings, Alexis Bijaoui (ex-Relae in Copenhagen, Arpège and Garance in Paris and Auberge de La Roche in the Nice hinterland) is taking over the kitchen for the season. On the menu of our riotous “grand déjeuner” lunch: zucchini blossom tempura served with silky brown butter sauce teased by a touch of some unexpected green curry; mouthwatering giant wild mussels from the Port-Saint-Louis, paired with red meat radish sliced razor thin, all bathed in a tasty lemongrass beef broth; a salad of crisp, local haricots verts with yogurt dressing and toasted seeds; before the only sweet option on the menu, a less inspired lemon cake, which was a little doughy, but was saved by a refreshing scoop of thyme-apricot ice cream. At night, small plates give way to a six-course tasting menu. // Marcellin Caillou

FEELING THIRSTY? : A short selection of stand-out winemakers, including the Gard duo of Imogen Berry and Robin Althoff (chardonnay at €7 a glass), the Ardèche-based Martin Texier (syrah at €52 a bottle), or Fanny Sabre in Burgundy (Aligoté, €59), along with cocktails shaken up by the Italian mixologist Marco Marraro, including a cool Mexican Mule that alchemizes mezcal, lemon juice, ginger beer and angostura (€8).
PRICE: : Tasting menu €65.