After the Hôtel Le Voltaire and its restaurant by the same name, it’s now time for the Hôtel Présent to bring a little excitement to this picturesque Arles square surrounded by plane trees and terraces. In a building from the 1950s designed by Pierre Vago, featuring bright yellow tables and awnings, Alexis Bijaoui (ex-Blue Hille in New York, Relae in Copenhagen, Arpège and Garance in Paris; the co-founder of the Auberge de La Roche) is taking over the kitchen for the season. On the menu of our riotous “grand déjeuner” lunch: zucchini blossom tempura served with silky brown butter sauce teased by a touch of some unexpected green curry; mouthwatering giant wild mussels from the Port-Saint-Louis, paired with red meat radish sliced razor thin, all bathed in a tasty lemongrass beef broth; a salad of crisp, local haricots verts with yogurt dressing and toasted seeds; before the only sweet option on the menu, a less inspired lemon cake, which was a little doughy, but was saved by a refreshing scoop of thyme-apricot ice cream. At night, small plates give way to a six-course tasting menu. // Marcellin Caillou
FEELING THIRSTY? : A short selection of stand-out winemakers, including the Gard duo of Imogen Berry and Robin Althoff (chardonnay at €7 a glass), the Ardèche-based Martin Texier (syrah at €52 a bottle), or Fanny Sabre in Burgundy (Aligoté, €59), along with cocktails shaken up by the Italian mixologist Marco Marraro, including a cool Mexican Mule that alchemizes mezcal, lemon juice, ginger beer and angostura (€8).
PRICE: : Tasting menu €65.
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