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Levain

Boulangerie Levain (Arles)

© Pascale Brevet

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Some serious bread baking operations are underway in Arles! Leading this movement? A duo with strongly-held beliefs, composed of Pascale Brevet (a former press rep for Terroirs d’Avenir and L’Arbre à Café), who joined the fermentation world at Terre et Blé, and Eugenio Mailler, a Neapolitan writer who was part of Italy’s Slow Food movement. The two are currently spreading their beliefs at this atelier with both unfinished and tiled walls, where all kinds of breads (rye, spelt, semi-wholegrain) are made using local, artisan flours grown by Henri de Pazzis. Also worth trying are the seasonal focaccia with pink onions and barberry, the sweet fougasse d’Aigues-Mortes and the pompe à l’huile olive oil brioche on Wednesdays and weekends, plus a few drinks carefully chosen by Eugenio – levain beer from the Brasserie Artisanale Arlésienne, Libre Arbitre red wine from Bastien Boutareaud in the Alpilles, Wilder Satz skin-contact wine from Brand Bros… Enough to spark a riot! // Angela Dolu

THE HIDDEN GEM: The sourdough brioche studded with wild blueberries is a veritable sugar bomb (€3 a piece, €20 for 500 grams).

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