Bid farewell to the tarmac of the Parc Régional des Alpilles’ former parking lot, and make room for a rustic space that brings together cozy wood-paneled walls, a big terrace under century-old trees and a chicken coop! That’s where you’ll find chef Mathew Hegarty (a contestant on France’s Top Chef 2018) and pastry chef Coline Leenhardt (ex-Château La Coste), running Eïdra, named after Coline’s Kanak nanny. The other night, their set menu made using local produce (meat from the Alpilles, fish from Côté Fish…) really hit the bull’s eye: a smattering of amuse-bouche (smoked duck breast and pickled plum, a mini onion tartlet topped with beer jelly…); a striking steak tartare titillated by homemade soy sauce, pepper piperade and shoyu; sensational octopus tacos with fried seaweed and pickled cucumber; eggplant purée made from home-grown eggplant, mussels and a potato brunoise; shredded lamb wrapped in thinly sliced celeriac and a miraculous lamb jus; before quartered apricots dotted with olive oil from Le Mas Saint Jean, getting steamy with some shredded almonds. // A.A.
FEELING THIRSTY? A predominately southern wine list with a few hidden treasures: Utopy, a Minervois white from Le Clos des Jarres (€11 a glass), an Alsatian Pinot noir from Kreydenweiss (€38 a bottle), a red Provence from Les Milan (€60)…
PRICE: Menus €34 (lunch) and €58 (dinner), à la carte €47-56, brunch €36.
