After working at the legendary Bistrot du Paradou, Jean-Baptiste Bert set down his knives in a splendid mas stone farmhouse in Fontvieille, in the heart of the Vallée des Baux. Enjoyed underneath the trellis in the summer or around the fireplace in the winter, his seasonal cuisine mostly relies on local gems and is a real treat! For us, the day we went for lunch: a trio of perfectly crisp asparagus from Barbegal, with farm-fresh sheep’s milk yogurt and slivers of sheep’s milk tomme cheese from the Mas Reynaud; sensational rockfish soup intensified by some good homemade rouille; extremely tender beef cheek stew with a reduction, boulangère potatoes and pan-fried carrots; before a delicious chocolate mousse tucked into a vanilla cream emulsion. // G.LeP.

FEELING THIRSTY? Pretty bottles: Cornaline, an elegant Baux-de-Provence from the Domaine Hauvette (€10 a glass), a natural Brouilly vieilles vignes from Jean-Claude Lapalu (€57 a bottle), a brilliant Crozes-Hermitage from Matthieu Barret (€47), or even a Hérault red 2015 VDP from La Grange des Pères if you want to break the bank (€180).

PRICE: Menus €35 (lunch) and €45 (dinner).