Enishi by Toshiro

He’s finally gone and flown the nest! Toshiro Fujii (ex-Air du Temps in Éghezée, San and Toshiro in Brussels) set himself free from his mentor Sang-Hoon Degeimbre, settling down where it all began in the Walloon Brabant region. The chef discreetly set up the wood-clad Enishi along the main road, for a remake of Lost in Translation between Tokyo and Waterloo. That night, we ate: sensational pastrami-style wagyu; invigorating mackerel sashimi with a rice vinegar buzz; exquisite raw langoustine delicately coated in a sharp apple-celery brunoise; extremely tender steamed pollack with miso and yuzu; scallops (also raw) arm in arm with sunchokes topped with foie gras; bloody duck breast crimsoned with red cabbage, shiso and umeboshi (Japanese salted plum); and a vivid citrus fruit compilation featuring a jelly, sorbet, fresh citrus slices and cake, for the explosive finale. // Léa Pelotti

FEELING THIRSTY? Fairly organic-centric bottles that don’t (necessarily) break the bank: Vermentino from Mas du Chêne in the Gard (€6 a glass, €29 a bottle), a tinto Douro from Maria Izabel (€55 a bottle), or a Domaine Pignier Chardonnay from the Jura (€120), as well as a few sakes and Japanese whiskeys.

PRICE: Menus €45 (lunch) and €75-95 (dinner).