Un gastro qui ne dit pas son nom

Restaurant Ginko (Lille)

© Virginie Garnier

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After playing hide-and-go-seek on Rue de l’Hôpital-Militaire, Ginko says peek-a-boo from behind a mysterious nameless windowed storefront, across from the Saint-Étienne church. The former Le Vinci bistro filled with regulars has made way for a detail-focused fine dining spot run by Valentina Giaccobe (former sous-chef at Rozo) and Julien Ingaud-Jaubert (former pastry chef at the Clarance), who met at Gagnaire’s Gaya. In a Japanese-inspired ambiance with soulful vibes, the duo sure stand out from the crowd in Lille. Just consider the €40 prix-fixe menu we had the day we went, where the catch of the day was spot on: to cast off to sea, a meagre tartare served with a tangy chickpea cream dotted with radish and citrus fruits – best sponged up with the good bread from the neighboring bakery, served with whipped vegetable peel butter; then some excellent pearly cod with beurre blanc sauce, a slice butternut squash cooked with a bit of bite, a quenelle of tender spaghetti squash and a sprinkling of fresh herbs; and for your return back to dry land, a comforting rice pudding topped with barley caramel, quince compote and an almond crisp. // Line Dema 

FEELING THIRSTY? : Well-made and reasonably priced natural wines: Sur le Bois, a maranges from Bonnardot (€13 a glass), Strate, a Hérault white from Le Clos Constantin (€14), Mosaïque, a Rhone syrah from Christophe Pichon (€87 a bottle)… 
PRICE: : Prix-fixe menus €40 (three courses, lunch), €65 (four courses, lunch and dinner) and €85 (six courses, dinner), food and wine pairings €45-55. 

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