Right near the Grand’Place, Le Présentoir’s green façade has its mission written out in golden letters: “natural wine shop” and “living bar.” So many well-kept promises, which you can enjoy while seated on the terrace, at the bar or on a banquette inside. And to go with the hundreds of labels of living wines? There’s a menu that sticks to the seasons. For us, the night we went: a cheeky homemade oxtail terrine; perfectly cooked razor clams seasoned with a tasty salsa verde; ultra-creamy risotto with parmigiano reggiano and green asparagus; before a floating island spiced with cardamom, dressed in caramel and sprinkled with toasted almonds. // M.F.

FEELING THIRSTY? Blanc de Noir, a Crémant-d’Alsace from Pierre Frick (€7 a glass), La Guerrerie, a gourmet Touraine red from Thierry Puzelat (€36 a bottle) or L’Orangeade, a translucent Roussillon white from Philippe Formentin (€63 a bottle).

PRICE: Set menus €22 (weekday lunch), à la carte €23-41.