In't Spinnekopke

There’s not a cobweb in sight, except for on the old sign of this authentic brusseleer tavern – the oldest in the capital, standing tall since 1762. Who’s running things these days? Jonathan Smeyers (ex-Kaaicafé, Beaucoup Fish), Esther Herten and Sven De Man (both of whom are behind Affigem Café Brussels), who first bumped heads at Kafka and are now backed up in the kitchen by chef Thomas Prieels, snatched away in turn from Beaucoup Belge. Aka a talented foursome who did away with the former tourist-trap menu and gave a big spring clean to In’t Spinnekopke’s three dining rooms (authentic wooden paneling, mosaic tile floors, original paintings and Théâtre de Toone posters). Wolfed down the night we went: chubby panko-coated croquettes filled with peppery, creamy whole grey shrimp; exceptional Toulouse sausage and bacon languorously lying in a spinach/parsley stoemp; incredible beef carbonnade in a thunderous jus de viande, with frietjes and chicory salad; some very Belgian spaghetti bolognese that was a little less impressive than the rest. With our bellies bulging to the max, we skipped Pépé’s chocolate mousse and the Gauloise apple tart with salted caramel ice cream. Old fashioned, ket! // Rosa Poulsard

FEELING THIRSTY? An impressive selection of lambics commented upon by Benjamin “Benj’” Van de Paul: a Muscar-Elle produced by Lambiek Fabriek, a classy Armand & Gaston from 3 Fonteinen (both at €24 for 750 ml), an Oude Krief from De Cam (€15 for 375 ml)…

PRICE: Appetizers €5-14, mains €13 to €22.50, desserts €7.50 to €8.50.