Waste really gets the self-taught Elliott Van de Velde going, who was initially behind a zero-waste catering service, and now runs a fine dining restaurant on Place Saint-Géry – where the PermaFunghi biodegradable mushroom mycelium lamps and the upcycled wooden tables set the tone: everything served here is going to be locally and sustainably sourced. On the six-course tasting menu the night we went: tender Brussels trout (from the aquaponics Bigh farm) and butternut squash prepared three ways; stunning malted barley tartlet with oyster mushrooms and a Surréaliste beer jelly that had us practically licking the plate clean; runny stracciatella and a fermented summer berry mousseline topped with a veil of beetroot; luscious stuffed cabbage with a hearty spelt wheat risotto, plus a vin jaune flan and quinoa mousse intensified by the addition of Botaniets gin; before a delightfully comforting chocolate porridge refreshed by malt ice cream and a croissant-flavored mousse; and finally an exhilarating hay-flavored panna cotta met chestnut cake and herb granita, a damn good combination. // Luce Berdon

FEELING THIRSTY? Bottles that respect both the drinker and the planet: Avant la Tempête, a Savoie jacquère from Mathieu Apffel or Note di Grillo, a Sicilian white from Alessandro Viola (€8 a glass), Coëf, a Loire Cabernet franc produced by Sébastien David (€65 a bottle)… Water €5.

PRICE: Lunch menu €55 (3 courses), dinner menus €90-105 (5-7 courses), cheese €12, alcoholic pairings €40-45-65, non-alcoholic pairings €33-40-50.