Pupusas, enredos or enchiladas? Maira Montano juggles Latin American bangers which whip up memories of her life before, thirty years ago, when she was serving these Salvadorian staples in their original habitat. These days, she’s now settled in this corner café in Antwerp, backed by her power trio of daughters – Rosalina, Mayra (also owner of Lima Nikkei) and Jacquelinne – powering through on coffees made with beans from Andy Roasters (for La Marzocco) and Matubu (for filter), while bringing her culture to life on the plancha: her legendary pupusas revueltas, plump, griddled corn tortillas stuffed to bursting with cheese, pork belly and beans, served with fries and pickled cabbage; enredos con carne packed with pulled beef, mozzarella, chimichurri and pickled onions; and bombastic fried enchiladas, to be devoured, why not, with a runny omelet dusted with alguashte (ground pumpkin seeds), tomatada and garlic butter. · Coco Bianca
FEELING THIRSTY? In addition to the full range of caffeinated classics (espresso, americano, filter coffee, flat white, €3 to €4.30), complete this edible tour of El Salvador with a salvi horchata (rice milk drink) or a fresco de tamarindo (sweetened tamarind water), both homemade (€5 each).
PRICE: Pupusas €4-6, enchiladas €14.50 to €15.50, omelet €12.50.
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