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Le Manoir de la Forêt

© James Nelson

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The country escape everyone fantasizes about – now with dinner to match! Opposite the nineteenth-century château and a short wander from the estate’s woodland cabins nestled among the trees, a terrace gazing over a pond sets the scene for long, languid evenings. With a local wine in hand, wait for the calling cards of globe-trotting chef Frédéric Quemin (ex-Les Frères Pourcel) to glide out of the kitchen! That evening, as the sun melted into the water: the season’s final white asparagus cloaked in Comté mousseline and crowned with grilled bone marrow; followed by generous artichoke barigoule, slow-stewed and buried under a tangle of matchstick fries, perfect for chasing every last drop of juice; and, to close, French toast with pan-fried strawberries, as soft and glowing as the sunset itself. A truly edible haven of peace! · Hervé Martin

FEELING THIRSTY? A handful of local beers from Brewing Cartel (€5-6) and plenty of bottles from near and far – whether you lean natural or prefer something more conventional (or are pouring for your father-in-law): a white Coteaux-du-Vendômois from Domaine Brazilier (€6 a glass), Ô Bu, a lively skin-contact from Gazeau-Baldi in the Loire Valley (€40 a bottle) or play it classic with Montet, a chinon from Domaine Grosbois (€76).

PRICE: Set menus €21-26 (lunch), appetizers €16-24, mains €24-34, desserts €12-16, kids’ menu €15.

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