Facade, walls, wines: red rules the roost at this drinking den, named after Jean-Pierre Melville’s penultimate film. The clue hangs opposite the bar in the form of an original movie poster, surrounded by a patchwork of slate, blackened stone and the remnants of an old chimney, an interior that feels more volcanic crater than wine bar. Former projectionist Paul Landry, Stéphane Lesieur (Donald’s Pub and Crafters) and winemaker Joseph Mosse have set their sights on this lively spot in the city’s pedestrianized quarter, cultivating their collection with some 350 wines, from Derain in Burgundy to Touraize in the Jura, Rutissons in the foothills of the Chartreuse and local hero François Saint-Lô. To keep things grounded, there are plenty of snacks to soak up the pours, like Gribiche pâté en croûte, Spanish charcuterie and tartines topped with scamorza or Marcel Petite Comté. · Adrien Nouviaire

Drank: Cour-Cheverny, a romorantin from Tessier (€6 a glass) and Cabourne, a cabernet franc-cabernet sauvignon blend from Domaine de la Créchette (€5).