Fancy finding your sea legs? Head to Le Poisson Rouge with the hungry and thirsty pilgrims making the journey to welcome back Elmi Rejichi-Lubrano. Under the watchful eye of Eugénie Cebrian (ex-Akrame in Paris), the famoso chef is cooking up unapologetically Catalan fare, a mere thirty kilometers from his native Perpignan, in the postcard-perfect setting of this waterfront restaurant. Some things, thankfully, haven’t changed, starting with the house vermouth, served with a citrus zest swirl and anchovy-stuffed olives, sipped while working your way through sharing plates, fins fanned out to catch the sun, on the raised terrace with the Mediterranean shimmering below. · Edna Maude

Ate: A masterful fish suquet – a Catalan take on bouillabaisse with a deeply flavorful broth that works its magic on the prawns, squid and potatoes waiting to be fished out from the bottom of the bowl.

Price: Sharing plates €13-30, specials €17-40, desserts €8-10.