Since opening Kok au Vin back in 2003, Jurgen Aerts has been a prominent figure on Bruges’ dining scene. Now, as the owner of this new spot, he’s hung up his apron and taken over the floor at Locàle, leaving his trusted collaborator Hendrik Dequeker (ex-Bury and Souvenir) to steer the kitchen. The stripped-back interior (light wood, black metal pedestal tables, bar stools) keeps the spotlight firmly on the fresh, inspired market cuisine, served as small plates to share (or not!). The night we went, we indulged in: an uber-creamy, ultra-crispy grey shrimp croquette; veal Milanese in a bright tomato sauce, served with romanesco broccoli, feta and from-scratch pesto; pollack lounging in a luscious crab sauce alongside tender leeks and parsley root; and finally, juicy free-range chicken, hay-smoked and paired with a vibrant orange medley of carrot and butternut squash. · Schannul

FEELING THIRSTY? A wine and spirits list that regularly rotates: Ontañón Kaori, a white rioja from Bodegas Ontañón (€9 a glass) and Ruffus, a local sparkling chardonnay from the Domaine des Agaises (€55 a bottle). Otherwise, there’s an excellent selection of cocktails and mocktails: Belgian gin (from Dada Chapel distillery) and tonic (€15 a glass) or the house Pearonic mocktail (€11).

PRICE: Set menus €37-47 (lunch) and €57 (dinner), appetizers €12-20, mains €36-40, desserts €12.