Hook, line and sinker! Young skippers Léa Viano (ex-Qui plume la lune) and Louis Robergeau (ex-Mirazur and Virtus) left Paris behind to cast their lines in the heart of La Rochelle. Their latest catch? A wine-colored restaurant they’ve renovated themselves, where the line between the kitchen and dining room all but disappears. Between stainless steel and exposed stone, it’s a culinary double act built on confident, deeply satisfying cooking, where seasonal fish reigns supreme – and is often dry-aged first. Then there’s the wine cellar, a pirate’s booty of bottles. Plain sailing from first course to last! · Marie Saline

Ate: Coastal langoustines, snow peas and tender turnips; beautifully pearlescent turbot in a briny, sea-kissed jus, finished with cockles and young alliums; an unforgettable citrus cake and slow coffee…

Price: €65 menu (five courses), snacks €6-10, starters €10-16, mains €19-27, desserts €10.