“Half a dozen fines oysters and a glass of Côtes-Catalanes from Pithon?” No problem. Come six o’clock, fresh from the beach or a well-earned siesta, natural wine lovers flock to Arthur Houin’s place, where a haul of around 700 labels – from La Grange des Pères, Fumey Chatelain, L’Anglore and Danjou-Banessy – sets the bar high for the local scene. A native of the island, the owner long had his eye on the spot (already home to a wine shop), before successfully taking it over in 2022. Bingo! A prime location in the heart of the pedestrianized village center, complete with a terrace and a hidden, speakeasy-style garden out back, plus bistro-inspired dishes to boot: terrine, mussel and fennel salad, meagre crudo, dry-aged Salers steak tartare… Arthur’s instincts were spot on! · Henri Coblanc

Ordered: Saint Jean from Benoît Pontenier (€39, including a €10 corkage fee), paired with BBQ pork shoulder, piment d’Espelette-spiked jus, pickled cucumber and garlic cream