Odessa l'École

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Launched into the post-Covid world by Mathieu Kochen – of the Lyonnais group that founded Odessa Comptoir and took up residency post-lockdown in the Morvan – the former elementary school in Lormes has become a new-fangled eatery. Decked out with chic finds (plump armchairs, gigantic farm tables, hanging Edison bulbs) and equipped with a gigantic courtyard-terrace, the blackboard lunch menu features a series of tasty treats: recreational zucchini, garlic and shallot velouté served at room temperature and seasoned with mint picked fresh from the garden, cumin and red onion; pleasantly smoky white wine pork terrine, studded with pink peppercorns and served with fat homemade pickles; Sunday lunch-style roast chicken thigh with rustic beans in a parsley butter sauce; before a comforting tart made on a wholewheat crust, with almond cream and Burgundy redcurrant jam. // Pica Bidon 

FEELING THIRSTY? Ever true to their values, the owners serve low-intervention wines, whether they be exotic (a vivifying Alpino pet’ nat’ from the Cantina Furlani at €4.50 a glass) or local (a Vézelay wine from Valentin Montanet at €28 a bottle), or perhaps even homemade (pure Chasselas Kool Aid for €12). Also worth sipping are the lovely Tispy beers made by the microbrewery in the village of Brassy (€5 for 330 ml). 
PRICE: À la carte €24-26. 

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