Au Fil du Zinc

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There’s something new in Chablis! Fabien Espana handed over the keys to his restaurant Au Fil du Zinc to Mathieu Sagardoytho, the former chef at Agapé in Paris. You won’t find any major changes to the dining room (exposed stone walls, whitewashed rafters, pistachio green velvet armchairs) with the Serein River babbling away peacefully down below… But the dishes really shake things up! The day we went for lunch, the €34 menu included: a masterful duo of sardines from La Trinité-sur-Mer (the first prepared as a crispy yet tender fillet breaded in cornmeal, the second served raw in a very tangy marinade), paired with a green curry gazpacho with cucumber, coconut and basil; a cheeky pigeon (thigh confit and roasted breast meat) with Mirabelle plums, chard leaves and root, plus pigeon liver cooked in butter and Vietnamese pepper; before a very harmonious dessert of white peach slices and white peach sorbet, with a hibiscus and Sichuan pepper cream, meringue petals and whipped cream – a stunning combo! FYI: the chef also offers up five- or seven-course tasting menus. // G.D.

FEELING THIRSTY? A hundred Chablis wines for all budgets (Bouchard at €6 a glass, Durup at €30 a bottle, Long Depaquit at €176…), and so much more: a Morgon from Jean Foillard (€28), a Bandol red from the Château de Pibarnon (€45), etc.

PRICE: Menus €34 (weekday lunch), €38 (Saturday lunch, dinner except for Friday and Saturday nights), €49 (except for Friday and Saturday nights) and €64, food and wine pairings +€24 and €36.

Le Fooding’s 2022 Guide is fresh out of the oven!

What’s on the menu this year? A brand-new selection of 200 restaurants, bars and bedrooms across France, articles sprinkled throughout the magazine, the taste of the times distilled down to its purest form in our highly anticipated award’s list and, for the very first time, two new guides to the country’s best stand-out shops and spirited cellars!

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover


Le Fooding is a print and digital guide to all the restaurants, chefs, bars, stylish hotels and B&Bs that make up the “taste of the times,” plus an annual awards list for new establishments across France, a series of gastronomic events, a tool that allow you to make reservations at some fantastic bistros, and an agency specialized in event planning, content production and consulting… In short, something to keep you on your toes at all times!

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