restaurant

Le Garde Champêtre

Le Garde Champêtre (Gyé-sur-Seine)

© Laura Dargent

  • Date
  • share

Winner of the 2019 Fooding d’amour award

This former SNCF train depot was taken over by a group of friends – Juan Sanchez (Semilla and Freddy’s in Paris), Emilie and Cédric Bouchard, Jean-Pierre and Véronique Josselin (winemakers in the Champagne region) and Peter Lippmann (a photographer) to be precise. What should you expect? A restaurant with staggeringly high ceilings, terrazzo tile floors, a big kitchen that opens out onto the bar and a terrace, which extends into the one-hectare organic vegetable patch, where the discreet Japanese chef Kazuya Miyashita (ex-Accents in Paris, who took over from Gil Nogueira and Sakaya Sawaguchi) picks his produce. The night we went, we began the meal with some delicate zakouski: an exquisite shot of watermelon juice with shiso oil, refreshed by some tomato sorbet; plump blood sausage beignets served over a bed of hay; decadent tuna sashimi with anzuboshi apricots, raw cream and an olive condiment; a small redfish fillet that was perfectly roasted in beurre blanc sauce and topped with a tuft of herbs from the garden; pork loin that was as tender as a hot knife through butter, juicy black trumpet mushrooms dotted with harissa, an oyster and sea beans; and for dessert, a deliciously tangy baked mirabelle plum with mascarpone ice cream and crumble topping. // Laura Dargent

FEELING THIRSTY? : An entirely natural selection, rich in Aube champagnes: Les Terres Mêlées from the Domaine de Bichery (€14.90 a glass, €87 a bottle), an incredibly rare Origines produced by Salima and Alain Cordeuil (€90), Sur Charrière, a skin-contact wine from Alain Cordeuil (€90), Sur Charrière, another skin-contact wine from the Domaine Labet (€58), etc.
PRICE: : Set menus €35 (weekday lunch), €48 (Saturday lunch) and €70 (dinner and Sunday lunch).

Save this spot in the Fooding app, available on iOS! Download it now in the app store.

The new Fooding Belgium Guide is now available to pre-order!

Inside you’ll find: 250 brand-new places from all over Belgium – that’s a whole lot of restaurants, bars, wine cellars, food shops and hotels to eat, drink and sleep your way round, in Flanders, Brussels and Wallonia; our hotly-anticipated list of 15 award winners, for a pure slice of Belgitude and 9 interviews with 40 of Belgium’s finest winers and diners.

Le Fooding’s brand-new Belgium guide frontcover
PRE-ORDER
About

Le Fooding is a print and digital guide to all the restaurants, chefs, bars, stylish hotels and B&Bs that make up the “taste of the times,” plus an annual awards list for new establishments across France and Belgium, a series of gastronomic events, a tool that allows you to make reservations at some fantastic bistros, and an agency specialized in event planning, content production and consulting…

Fooding® is a registered trademark.