restaurant

Claire et Hugo

Claire et Hugo (Sainte-Savine)

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For six years, Claire Baubrit and Hugo Lallemand crisscrossed Troyes and its surroundings from behind the wheel of a burger truck, before setting their sights on this former dry cleaner’s shop that they reconverted into a bistro, épicerie and bakery, where they make five homemade breads using organic, local, heirloom grains! Add to all that a dreamy terrace, a greenhouse for citrus (citron, kalamansi, kaffir lime, sweet lemon, Buddha’s hand, etc.), a garden/orchard, and you wind up with a truly insane spot, where happiness is found on the plate! The day we went for lunch, on the €24 menu: a subtle combination of smoked herring, crisp leeks, green grapes, and a yogurt, Ardèche mustard cocktail with oil infused with Buddha’s hand from the garden; octopus that was as tender as a Turkish delight, intensified by a harissa/peanut/basil dip; before ginger-poached plums with a hazelnut shortbread and a sheep’s milk yogurt sorbet. The dinner and Saturday lunch menus are more of the same goodness, but you choose four to five courses from seventeen possible options – ex.: soft-boiled egg, lemon, anchovies, seaweed and pickles; mussels with buckwheat, bell peppers, eggplant and basil; rump steak in chicken broth with shiitake mushrooms, green plums and cilantro; Hereford steak with carrots and horseradish; a blueberry financier with a verbena cream and grapefruit; raw chocolate sorbet with a coffee cream and black cardamom. // Gilles Dupuis

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a conscientiously short, organic and natural selection of wines to choose from: a Hautes-Côtes-de-Beaune white from the Domaine des Rouges Queues (€4.50 a glass), a Mondeuse from Marie and Florian Curtet (€37 a bottle), a Coteaux-Champenois red from the Fleurys (€43), etc.

PRICE: Menus €24 (weekday lunch), €39 and €46 (dinner and Saturday).

Le Fooding’s 2022 Guide is fresh out of the oven!

What’s on the menu this year? A brand-new selection of 200 restaurants, bars and bedrooms across France, articles sprinkled throughout the magazine, the taste of the times distilled down to its purest form in our highly anticipated award’s list and, for the very first time, two new guides to the country’s best stand-out shops and spirited cellars!

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover
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