500 bottles of wine: that’s the treasure trove to be found at this Ali Baba-esque cavern decked out in wood and run by Jean-Michel Wilmes and Frank Windel. Inside their wine bar with plenty of character (bricks, a glass roof, old adverts, wine barrels), they do so much more than just uncork bottles – they also keep an eye on their fine products too: Bordier cheeses, pork and chicken from Benoit and Amélie, andouillette from Thierry, cured pork products from Ospital… The night we went, we opted for: a charcuterie plate that struck us straight in the heart – ham from Ariège, homemade terrine, Gascon black pig andouille, rosette from Conquet; divinely seared free-range veal (tender yet crispy!) with steamed eggplant and a tasty tonnato sauce; and plump plums with speculoos and cream cheese for a late summer dessert. // G.D.

FEELING THIRSTY? Dive into the rows and crates of wine, or get some advice from the owners: a sharp Angevin Chenin from the Domaine de Montgilet (€3.20 a glass); a purring Rhone red from Maxime Laurent (€5.90); Potron Minet, a Roussillon white from Le Mas Trouillas (€20 a bottle); or Argonite, a Mâcon-Cruzille from Julien Guillot (€45).

PRICE: Set menu €12.50 (weekday lunch), à la carte €29-40.