In their small house tucked away at the end of a cobblestoned passageway, Valérie Chazeau (front of house) and Stéphane Majeune (in the kitchen, ex-Bistro Bancal in Clermont-Ferrand) serve their short menu of the day to around 20 guests at a time. The day we went for lunch, seated either in the living room/restaurant (a couch, a small bookcase, paintings) or on the bamboo fenced terrace, their plates shone with simplicity: a bright cucumber and tomato ceviche; flavorful slices of flash-seared hanger steak with a sesame seed crust, haricots verts, Camargue rice and the braising juices seasoned with soy sauce and vinegar; before an impeccable strawberry tiramisu. Observed on the neighboring tables: a squash and hazelnut tart; osso buco with polenta; stuffed cabbage… // G.D.

FEELING THIRSTY? Low-intervention wines: a Gard Syrah from Alain Allier (€5 a glass), an Aveyron Chenin from Patrick Rols (€25 a bottle), aChiroubles from Guy Breton (€28), a Côtes-du-Rhône red from the Domaine Gramenon (€30)…

PRICE: À la carte €27-29.