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Charleroi-native Céline Moustier, who used to work the dining room here, took over her partner Pierre-Yves Gosse’s (La 5e Saison) restaurant, after his tragic death. To kick off its sixth season, the bistro has changed its name and decor: white walls, parquet floors, filament light bulbs, a windowed kitchen – only the cozy patio out back still remains of its former self. Tried à la carte the other day at lunch: Petit-Gris de S’lognes snails and a wild garlic emulsion, dabbed up with puff pastry pieces or homemade bread; perfectly cooked Arctic cod giving a briny kick with its creamy shellfish jus, paired with mashed potatoes and diced celeriac; before a verbena crème brûlée with a refreshing citrus sorbet. And eyed up on the table opposite: cheeky beef tongue croquettes with Madeira sauce; stuffed free-range chicken thigh served with button mushrooms and Céline’s mother’s croquettes; and Bourdaloue tartlet. // Alain Maes

FEELING THIRSTY? Wet your whistle with: Rully 1er cru from the Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot (€65 a bottle), an Alsatian Pinot noir from the Domaine Marcel Deiss (€140)… and a small collection of beers – Saint-Feuillien, Chimay, Diôle, Moinette, Dupont, Gueuze Boon…

PRICE: Menu €40, à la carte €56-73.

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