At this cozy little restaurant with a very ochre ’n’ roll boudoir feel, there’s no one named Maurice and there’s no limonade to speak of. But there are plenty of good things to pair with all the treasures unearthed by sommelier Gaëtan Poels (Divino Gusto), thanks to the audacious cuisine of Jérémy Mahieu, who juggles French and Belgian classics (commendable shrimp croquettes; Black Angus hanger steak that’s not only masterfully cooked but served with authentic homemade fries; Dame Blanche ice cream sundaes for dessert; delicious and unexpected bistronomic creations, like slow-cooked salmon covered in a lovely hay emulsion; or runny burrata swimming in a delicate shiitake broth, slurped up in three bites. // Emma Caroni

FEELING THIRSTY? A tour of France via organic and natural wines, like Mise En Abymes, a Jacquère from the Domaine des 13 Lunes or the Bordeaux wine from the Château La Grolet (€5 and €6.50 a glass), along with a few terroir gems, like the sparkling wine from the Domaine de Glabais (€45 a bottle) or the always highly appreciated vintages from Vin de Liège, including Ô De Craie, a sunny and organic johanniter (€33).

PRICE: Tapas €7-14, appetizers €14-20, mains €24-35, desserts €9-14, platters (at the bar) €20.