Elements

Indrani Lodge: a medieval farm that’s been converted into an eco-luxury hotel complex, featuring a permaculture garden, seminars, yoga classes… And its very own restaurant, Elements, which sources its produce from the in-house garden and from local farmers. The new chef, Jérémy Wiame (Bon-Bon and Le Chalet de la Forêt in Brussels), who has taken over from Sebath Capela, only has to head outside to collect the vegetables, herbs and fruits that we then find on the tables, served raw, fermented, infused or cooked. The day we went for lunch, the entirely vegetarian menu (the main course was served blind, so you could guess the ingredients!) featured: an amuse-bouche of lemony carrot tacos; a miniature waffle topped with chervil, goat cheese and capers; bitter and tangy endive salad that bounced around like a Jokari ball; incredible fermented fennel over cime di rapa ravioli, in brown butter with a bouillon reduction that gave it a certain animalistic quality; a soothing mushroom and polenta tartine; and for the slightly less impressive dessert, a pistachio financier with blood orange granita, which still went down easy. For a coffee, a snack, or a light meal, head to their second location Petits Elements, open from Thursday to Saturday from 11am to 2pm. // Carlos Cotalosse

FEELING THIRSTY? Cocktails made with herbs from the garden (grappa, lemon, chervil, €10), minimally sweetened homemade kombucha and lemonade (€5), and clean wines, all served by the bottle or the glass: Recto Verso, a silky Blanc de Noirs from the Domaine des Accoles in the Ardèche (€11.50 a glass, €42 a bottle), L’Anglore, a tavel from Éric Pfifferling (€16.50 and €65), or Le Pérou, a red from the Domaine des Frères near Chinon (€9 and €38).

PRICE: Set menus €45 (lunch), €62 and €77 (food and wine pairings €39 and €49), brunch €38, kids’ menu €19 (Sunday); mains €6-17 at Petits Elements.