Raki Restaurant (Brussels)

© Laura Gina Benocci

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Tomorrow never dies for Paul-Antoine Bertin! After having lowered the curtain of the bistrological Ötap, the eternally young chef (despite having two other spots to his name, Rebel and Grains, and half a decade of experience) has resurrected his little corner of the Châtelain neighborhood with a Berlin-style wine bar. Candle-lit and sitting pretty (limewashed walls, stone-topped tables, metal stools), Raki no longer serves a set menu but, to pair with the house sommelier Raphaëlle Boiron’s bottles, a list of bistro plates whipped up in collaboration with Géry Van Peteghem – whose been seen in residence at St Kilda. Take the generous shrimp croquette nestled alongside a shellfish rouille and fried parsley; impeccable amberjack fillet on a beach of labneh surrounded by fig leaf oil; and indulgent chocolate ganache with a cocoa and fleur de sel crumble. A word of advice for fans of photosynthesis: ask for a seat at the central bar, ideal for those who like to see… and be seen. // Jeanne Jaco

FEELING THIRSTY? Long live the sound advice of Raphaëlle, who will dig up gems from her cellar: Été Indien, an Anjou grolleau from the Domaine des Roseraies (€5.50 a glass), an Alsatian pinot noir from Albert Boxler (€60 a bottle) or even a white Na from Cantina Giardino in Campania (€35). And to get you fired up, Gobek Turkish raki (€4.50).

PRICE: Plates €9-25.

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