Punk-rock isn’t dead – it’s hungry! Back with a bang is Biarritz native Mikael Lecumberry, former rocker and ex-owner of Le Rocher de la Vierge (Fooding Guide 2018 Best Dive Bar), now squatting a former pizzeria in the Chalets neighborhood with his daughter Maïder, a sommelier who did time at Nabuchodonosor. At Ramones, forget tablecloths or bells and whistles, just ideas and plates coming at you fast, living wines and humble ingredients (offal included) given their turn in the spotlight. It all makes for a one loud, gutsy gig of Basque-Catalan mischief, performed for just seventeen lucky diners seated elbow-to-elbow. Hey ho, let’s eat. · Augustin Marie

Ate that lunch: Epic sweetbreads glossed with langoustine jus; melting Iberian pork cheeks Catalan-style, slow-cooked then flash-seared, with girolles, lentils and their cooking juices; and unapologetically comforting chocolate ganache with cacao crumble.

Price: Set menus €20-23 (lunch), tapas €2-6, à la carte €31-42 (from 8pm).