Le Guide Fooding’s 2016 Man of the Year
Alexandre Gauthier pays homage to his father Roland (chef of La Grenouillère from 1979 to 2003), cultivating the memory of good taste at this restaurant carefully groomed by architect Patrick Bouchain (tomette tiles, hardwood floors, almond green benches, leather chairs, atmospheric suspension lamps). The day we went for lunch, inspired by the recipes served by his father on March 15th, 1979 (the day La Grenouillère opened), the retro €23.50 menu played all the hits: a gigantic crisp lettuce heart with a lively tourteau crab cream; deboned quail stuffed with spinach and langoustines, served with joyful tagliatelle; or a glistening cod steak with fresh peas and radishes; the famous and moist flambéed crepe Suzettes – or a summery mara des bois strawberry vacherin. To drink: a Chenin d’Ailleurs from Françoise Chidaine in Tours (€6.50 a glass), a very funky Figure Libre from the Occitan Gayda estate (€6.50 a glass) or a more classic Médoc from the Château Castera (€38 a bottle). Set menus €19 to €23.50 (lunch), à la carte €41-63. // V.B.