Comète (Saint-Lunaire)

© Angélina Huriaux

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Located a seashell’s throw away from the Saint-Lunaire beach, Comète is lighting up the coastal Armorican food-o-sphere! The duo responsible for this feat? A young couple from Rennes, who got their hands on this elegant townhouse (light hardwood floors, vintage furniture, a covered terrace) and installed a few B&B bedrooms upstairs and a nice bistro on the ground floor. Inside, Angélina Huriaux watches over the immaculate dining room, while Victor Nicolas (who trained under Christophe Pelé at Le Clarence in Paris) stitches together stunning surf ’n’ turf dishes from the open kitchen. Ordered à la carte the night we went: radiant spider crab meat wrapped in big smoked cabbage leaves and sprinkled with puffed rice – or flash-seared squid paired with ultra-flavorful tomatoes, both surrounded by mozzarella whey; lovely pan-fried gilt-head bream with al dente haricots verts, crisp corn and thin slices of pattypan squash – or a superb John Dory with a generous serving of gnocchi and a red kuri squash and tarragon compote; before a delightful, deconstructed pavlova combining geranium-infused plums, meringue and a vanilla cream – unless you opt for the comforting poached pear topped with bugne beignets and chocolate sauce! The titillating lunch menu served during the week is also worth exploring (eg.: spaghetti squash, clams, goat cheese faisselle; line-caught sargo, spinach and red kuri squash gnocchi; pear compote, crumble), as is the no-less impressive breakfast for those sleeping upstairs. // Sophie Lecerf

FEELING THIRSTY? Biodynamic and natural wines: a Muscadet from the Domaine Batard Langelier (€4.50 a glass), a Gard white blend from Le Mas Mellet (€5.50), a Saumur white from Sébastien Bobinet (€31 a bottle), a Rhone Syrah from Jean Delobre (€35)… But there’s also gin and vodka from the Awen Nature distillery (€4 a glass).

PRICE: Set menus €17-22 (lunch), à la carte €35-48 (dinner).

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