On rue de Seine, the enthusiastic group behind Semilla have expanded their pleasure-seeking empire. Grafted onto their original restaurant, this satanic tapas bar enjoys some light border hopping. In a space with white stonewalls, blonde woodwork and colorful blackboard menus, people file in off the street for one of the last available bar stools, seated between the bar and the kitchen island. Taking orders, the young waiters dressed in tee-shirts zip around while dispatching plates: crackling cod fritters with Black Pearl curried mayo, or carrot-ginger beignets; grilled avocado in a carrot sauce with a fighting spirit; sharp razor clams cooked in garlic butter; flank steak grilled over binchotan (a rare type of Japanese charcoal) with an incredible chimichurri sauce; and a jewel of a rose-pomegranate pavlova. To drink: Savennières from the Château Pierre Bise (€10 a glass, €52 a bottle) or Picoul-de-Pinet from the Domaine Félines Jourdan (€6 a glass, €30 a bottle), or even a Minervois, Mais où est donc Ornicar from Senat (€7.50 a glass, €39 a bottle). Plates €5-10. // M.J.-D.