At Freddy’s, the tapas-focused younger brother of the formidable Semilla (a door at the back connects the two restaurants), find a place wherever you can: at the bar, across from the kitchens, at a small table bolted to the wall…. The evening we went, we had our noses practically in the kitchen/grill, taking in the odors of the excellent sobrassada; zucchini fritters dipped into a star of anise sauce; golden veal liver intensified by the tanginess of ribbons of rhubarb; peeled and slightly sweet cherry tomatoes in a dashi jelly; and a shortbread cookie with a kalamansi cream (a small variety of orange), with a light coconut mousse. To drink, they maintain the same high standards as the original restaurant: Vaucluse rouge from the Domaine des Amouriers (€5 a glass), Morgon Côte de Py from Foillard (€10) and Savennières-Roche-aux-Moines from the Château Pierre Bise (€48 a bottle). Plates €5-9. // H.G.