L'Avant-Comptoir du Marché
On the corner of the Saint-Germain covered market, the youngest member of Yves Camdeborde’s bistronomic kingdom is an ode to pork. You’ll find it sticking its snout everywhere, on the doors, on the blackboard menus, in the glasses and, irresistibly, the night we went, on our plates: the ham croquettes are a must (€3.50); plus the exotic version with Parmesan and tapioca (€3.50); seasonal suggestions (a refreshing eggplant/tomato/onion tart, €9); an original sweet macaron of boudin noir from the Béarn (€4); roasted boudin terrine served warm with silky mashed potatoes and tangy matchstick apples (€6.50)… There’s plenty to delight the chic native crowd! And to help all these porky treats slide down: a mineral Picpoul-de-Pinet from the Domaine Félines Jourdan (€4.50 a glass) or a light red Pic-Saint-Loup from Le Clos Marie (€43 a bottle). Plus, there are a few outside tables under the market arches, with benches and high barstools. À la carte €15-40. // E.T.-S.