L'Avant-Comptoir du Marché
A line outside and bottles being popped open behind the bar, that’s the explosive new equation from star chef Yves Camdeborde, the son and brother of charcutiers. After his two Avant-Comptoirs, he has opened up a third tapas bar, where you can count on everything being delicious. Where? In a corner of the Marché Saint-Germain with painted pigs hung from the ceiling, flying trout, a long bar, hand-written blackboard menus, armoires full of wine and people standing elbow-to-elbow trying to get their hands on some of these naughty small plates: good old-fashioned noir de Bigorre pâté, boudin terrine made by his brother, Philippe Camdeborde, slow-cooked pork shoulder in an oyster emulsion, port trotters with a bloody beetroot and buckwheat salad, cheeky tripe with tomatoes, lemon, olive, basil and Parmesan; or a pork burger on a corn flour bun with piment d’Espelette and a raspberry/piquillo dip. For dessert? Fire on ice! With a L’Arbre à Café coffee sorbet flambéed in a Baked Alaska with walnut cake! There’s no point in staying dry either, so dive into their wine collection with its many natural labels: Côtes-Catalanes Mon P’tit Pithon blanc (€4.50 a glass) or Aveyron Minimus from Nicolas Carmarans (€21 a bottle), selected from amongst thirty bottles. Tapas €4-10, charcuterie €7-19, desserts €2-6. Count on spending around €20-30. No reservations, no phone. // M.J.-D.