It’s hard not to just stand and stare slack-jawed at the striking Klein blue facade of this Reims wine shop/épicerie… But careful! Impatient friends are likely to jostle past to get inside! That’s because master-sourcers Aline and Eric Serva usually take their sweet time when serving their treasures in the best conditions possible – Ospital pork shank, Barthouil smoked salmon and duck confit, La Tête dans les Olives vinegar, Sicilian olive oil… Wolfed down the other day at lunch, seated around one of the big wooden tables: a lovely saucisson with Thai basil and lemongrass; paprika-spiced pastrami; tender Auvergne cured ham aged for 20 months; or an incredible herbed sheep’s milk cheese. Or maybe you’re more in the mood for boudin noir with sautéed potatoes; a plate of vegetables from Eric Roy; or Vietnamese chocolate mousse, sourced from the owner’s homeland! // N.K.

FEELING THIRSTY? Natural wines from all over: a Minervois red from Vivien Hemelsdael (€7 a glass), a Slovakian Rizling Vlašsky from Magula (€43.90 a bottle), a New Zealand Pinot gris from Sato (€56)…

PRICE: Cheese and charcuterie boards €18, mains €26.